Part Four - Lusaka, Zambia

Location: Lusaka, mid-Zambia
Languages: English, Nyanja, Bemba
Population: 1 750 000
Prices: Services and gas cheap, goods, european prices or more expensive
Attractions: Soweto Market, The National Museum, Munda Wanga Environmental Park 
Info: The capital and the largest city of Zambia with almost 2 million citizens. Lusaka was an old tribal village, which European settlers later expanded into a city. It was chosen as the capital of colonized Northern Rhodesia and after Zambia gained independence it kept its status as the capital city.
SA Recommends: Lusaka Backpackers (dorm room, breakfast, electricity and internet for under 10€/night)

26.11 17:02 GMT+1

We arrive to the Lusaka bus station late in the afternoon and the difference between the chill and serene Livingstone and Lusaka could not have been bigger. The bus station is very hectic and the first taxi drivers try to sell their services to us before our bus has even stopped moving. Streets are full of people, but I don't see any other whites, which is not new for someone traveling in Africa, but the pointing/shouting/staring we get is more intense than anywhere I've ever been before. Everywhere you see mountains of garbage, since the local perception of recycling and waste management greatly differ from the European...

The Zambian laid back attitude and chaos of the city with 1,7 million in it, create quite an interesting combination. The traffic is slow as the streets are packed, yet nobody seems to mind or be in a hurry. Our taxi trip from the bus station to our hostel takes about as long as it would've taken by foot, but since the taxi drivers prove to be super friendly (like pretty much every Zambian we've encountered) it's definitely worth the money. Taxi drivers here seem to often give good insights on the country. You don't even really have to read any local newspapers if you just initiate conversations with your taxi drivers.

Lusaka is quite busy and stressful for my taste and even though it's a nice city, I'm already looking forward to going to the more rural and peaceful Chipata near the east border of the country. Lusaka apparently has a reputation as a city with one of the highest crime rates in Africa, and while we haven't (yet) encountered any crime, the city certainly seems quite unsafe. The Zambians are generally really polite and friendly, but the unemployment and poverty rates in Lusaka are very high which always will lead to higher crime rates. The state of affairs in Lusaka is highly unfortunate. Like in many African cities life of crime isn't really a choice, it's just a way to survive for the less privileged, the real problems lie elsewhere.

28.11.12:09 GMT+1

Our original plan was to first head up to Chingola, a city near the (Democratic Republic of) Congo border to meet our local contact, but due to lack of time we unfortunately had to skip that part and now our plan is to travel straight to east. We never really had a fixed schedule, but we do have nonrefundable tickets for a flight leaving from Dar Es Salam on the 21st of December. So we have to move forwards, as much as I'd love to stay here forever and see everything.

The warmness of the weather and people in Zambia have been treating us extremely well and Zambia still remains as my favorite country I've ever been to. We've pretty much gotten used to the almost constant raining, but it's still nice to know, that the eastern Zambia where we're heading next, is supposed to be very dry and sunny, even during the rainy season.

Next destination: Chipata, Zambia

Part Three - Livingstone, Zambia

Location: Livingstone, southwest Zambia
Languages: English
Population: 140 000
Prices: Services and gas cheap, goods, European prices or more expensive
Attractions: Victoria falls, Livingstone Museum, Game Safaris
Info: Livingstone, named after Scottish explorer David Livingstone was founded by the British Empire near the biggest tribal village in the region, Mukuni. It's still a major tourist attraction due to the world famous Victoria Falls located few kilometers out of the city.
SA Recommends:
Victoria falls (Spectacular scenery)
Local Market (Unique atmosphere, and you'll find fruits to try that you've never even heard of)

A: Cape town, B: Windhoek, C: Livingstone

24.11 0:19 GMT+1

After another long and exhausting bus journey we arrive to the town of Livingstone. The Zambian laid back attitude is already visible at the border post, where things are about as informal as possible. The friendliness and hospitality of Zambian never ceases to amaze me. And because everybody speaks really good English, traveler feels instantly welcome. We dump our backpacks to our hostel and go for some local food. I had lots of Nshima and local relish on my last visit to town, so I ordered an item called "chicken in a basket" from the menu. Needless to say I was surprised when it turned out to be quite literal description: 15 minutes later, I'm presented with a whole roasted and spiced chicken, in a basket.

As pleased as my mouth was with the chicken, my stomach and bowels didn't exactly agree and the next  two days and nights were pure agony. The incredible heat and humidity in Livingstone did not help with the sweating and sickness, but only an idiot would pass up on seeing the Victoria Falls especially since we were so close, so I had to power through. The magnificence of the largest waterfalls in the world certainly managed to save my otherwise quite uncomfortable day, even if I had to run to the bathroom every thirty minutes. The falls just as awesome as the last time I saw them, probably my favorite place in the world scenery-wise. I was hugely disappointed that I didn't get to see much of the city like last time, but seeing the falls pretty much made up for it.

During my last visit, I really enjoyed Livingstone and I had one of the greatest traveling experiences of my life and this visit didn't change my view of the town, even though my experience wasn't as great as last time. Tomorrow morning we'll travel to our next destination, Lusaka, which is the first city on our route where I've never been before. So the trip is definitely getting more exciting for me.

Next destination: Lusaka, Zambia

Part Two - Windhoek, Namibia

Location: Windhoek, In the middle of Namibia: Khomas Region
Languages: English, Afrikaans, Oshiwambo
Population: 322 500
Prices: Services and gas are cheap, accommodation and goods on European price level
Attractions: Joe's Beerhouse, Heinitzburg castle, Christuskirche, National Gallery of Namibia
Info: Capital city of Namibia, Windhoek was founded by Jonker Afrikaner on 1840. Later came the Germans who settled around the area, which is why Windhoek still has a prominent German presence. Dry air and relatively high altitude (1700m) make nosebleeds common for all the newcomers. Most of the Namibian tourist attractions are located far away from the capital city, yet it still offers a lot to see for an open minded traveler.
SA Recommends: 
Stellenbosch Wine Bar and Bistro (Nice restaurant albeit a bit posh, steaks so fine you can eat them practically raw. ),
Otjikaendu Den (delicious and authentic African dining experience, and you'll most definitely be the only tourist),
Fusion Restaurant (Family owned restaurant offering traditional African food)

17.11 8:27 GMT+1

After a sleepless night in a bus (which turned out to be almost two hours late, TIA) we're safely in Windhoek. It's early in the morning, yet the sun is shining brightly and temperature is almost 30 degrees and my sidekick Timo looks like a Milky Bar left in the sun for too long. Nothing has changed since my departure earlier this year, but I'm still as excited as ever. For me Windhoek is the closest thing to a home in Africa so coming back feels comforting. Taxi drivers greet us with unparalleled enthusiasm, which makes you feel like a celebrity for about ten seconds, after which the continuous harassing and sleeve pulling starts to remind you of a Mid-Eastern marketplace. But that's how it works in Windhoek. The absolutely horrendous public transportation network is replaced with gazillions of taxi's, that will take you anywhere in the city with maximum 18N$ (~1,8€) which is quite sweet deal, even if uninformed tourists will most likely always pay the maximum price. Sometimes the constant honking and shouting of the cab drivers will make you mad, but today the heat and our humongous backpacks make the wave of taxi drivers a welcomed sight.

20.11 8:27 GMT+1

The first things that really catch your eye in Windhoek are the traces of German colonization. Everything, from streets named after German composers, to churches that look like they were teleported here from late 1800:s Europe, make Windhoek seem very German at first. However anyone who spends in Windhoek more than a couple of days, will realize that the very kraut-y exterior hides inside lots of original African culture. One only has to take a 9N$ (90 euro cents) taxi ride north from the city center and all the signs of Namibia's black, red and golden big brother have vanished, except for the Volkswagens favored by the cab drivers.

1962 the imperialists in charge of Windhoek, in their unceasing wisdom, exiled the African population to a township few kilometers north of town and Katutura (Herero for "The place where we do not want to live in") was born. Apartheid is long gone, but the saddening crime, alcoholism and poverty stricken shantytown is larger than ever. Nowadays the conditions in Katutura are considerably better than 50 years ago, still it only takes a short tour around the township to make even the most spoiled Euro-hick to understand how privileged we are without even realizing it. During my last visit, through some friends in right places, I was offered the opportunity to visit a Katuturan orphanage, which forced even me (not the most soft hearted person in the world admittedly) to make promises to my future self about filling out some adoption papers. Like everywhere else, the hope of Katutura lies on the shoulders of the children. Education in Namibia is slowly getting better and better and the openheartedness and ability to enjoy the small things is something first world children might learn from children in Katutura. Unfortunately like in many African countries, poverty drives many less privileged kids to alcoholism and the better educated go straight to Europe or RSA, rather than stay in their countries to build a better future.

Katutura is definitely a must see for everyone visiting Windhoek. In addition to getting an eye opening first hand look of whats happening on the wrong side of the tracks, you find many opportunities to experience one of the most 'Namibian' things: meat and braaing (barbequing). Namibian nature offers amazing variety of game for all your culinary needs and since all the animals get to roam around freely their whole lives, even the more environmentally aware can enjoy the meat without losing their night sleep. Namibia is mostly dry and rough land, unusable for cultivation, so no wonder majority of the Namibian food pie consists of meat. Even though there is no chance any of the local meat markets would pass any standard western health inspection, the meat from a Katuturan braai (usually an old oil barrel cut vertically in half) is absolutely mouthwatering. As of Tuesday, I've had four dinners, three of which came straight from a braai.

22.11 22:40 GMT+1

Somehow the Windhoek-curse struck again and I've been bedridden by the flu for the past couple of days. Maybe it's a blessing to be sick now, since I was already quite familiar with Windhoek. Better to miss some action down here, than somewhere where I've never been before. Regardless of my unluckiness with the old !Xu, the last few days in Windhoek have been very relaxing and it's time to set our eyes on the future. Our networking in the area turned out fruitful: we found a German traveler to join us to our next destination and our somewhat dynamic Finnish duo has transformed into three international musketeers. Tomorrow 3 in the afternoon we begin a bus trip towards northeast, where one of the seven natural world wonders, Victoria Falls, awaits us.


Next destination: Livingstone, Zambia

Part One - Cape Town, South Africa

Location: Cape Town (Western Cape, southwestern region of Republic of South Africa)
Languages: English, Afrikaans, Xhosa
Population: 827 000
Prices: Slightly cheaper than Europe
Attractions: Table Mountain, V&A Waterfront, Long Street, Clifton, Shark Cage Diving, Robben Island
Info: Cape Town is one of the biggest cities in South Africa. Perfect natural harbor once made it one of the most prominent trading cities in southern hemisphere and "Mother city" has still maintained its status as one of the liveliest cities in Africa. The "clean up" during 2010 Football world championship games made the city much more tourist friendly than its South African competitors Durban and Johannesburg.
SA Recommends: Long Street Backpackers (12€/night, right in the city center, relaxed atmosphere), Table Mountain (one of the seven natural world wonders, absolutely breathtaking scenery)

14.11 0:19 GMT+1

Tomorrow, I'll be picking up my faithful sidekick from the airport and our trip can officially begin. But since we won't be spending more than a couple of days here, it's time to write this extremely uneventful entry, sharing some of my views about the Mother city.

For someone who has seen a bit more Africa, at first Cape Town feels like a European perception of Africa in a nutshell for tourists. Market squares, craft centers and shopping malls are filled with mass produced merchandise representing the continent as a whole and the pap served in restaurants is drowned in chili sauce. Because that's how we westerners prefer to perceive Africa: as one country with one culture, easily digestible version. Americans who booked their room in a five star hotel in Cape Town as a package deal with their business class flight tickets, can now bring home a West African drum as a souvenir and proudly declare, that they've seen Africa and they now know where the ivory for our towers come from. Then again who can name a modern city, which isn't ridden with commercialism these days. To think that African city can't be both, modern and traditional, is probably even more offensive and ignorant than to think that you haven't reached 'real Africa' until you see clay shacks, toothless prostitutes and naked heathens dancing around a tied up missionary about to be cooked for dinner.

Cape Town sure doesn't lack "original African culture" or history even though appearances might be deceiving. One of the most peculiar languages in the world, the click-language "Xhosa" (and other tribal languages) can still be heard in the streets on a daily basis. And despite the witch hunt conducted by the Dutch colonialist pigs, there are still original bushmen living in Cape Town, fighting for their rights, as apartheid unfortunately isn't over for everyone. The people who were denied higher education during the apartheid era, haven't magically been finding job hunting easier after the end of apartheid. The saddening class society still exists. Many Cape Towners are still reserved towards other races and prefer to hang out wit their own kind, which also makes it not as tourist friendly as some of the other African cities.

But every city has it's problems and there is no reason to say no to Cape Town and the best way to show that you care is to travel. Cape Town's spectacular scenery, intriguing history and the cultural  diversity, will most definitely make it worth checking out. Climbing up Table Mountain was one of the (if not the) most rewarding hiking experiences in my life. Cape Town might have ugly history, but today, Cape Town is definitely one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Cape Town also offers myriads of activities for people who do not like to stay still. There's shark cage diving, sky diving, bungee jumping to start with and the city is also well known for it's night life. Regardless, I couldn't
be more excited about leaving Cape Town and heading towards north. Now it's time to throw the laptop back into my bag and enjoy the night in Cape Town, chilling on a balcony with a view over Long Street, the never resting center of Cape Townian life, partying and culture.

As I'm writing this while my sidekick is still on his way here, I'm going to sign off the blog entry by quoting something that anonymous traveler saw fit to write on the wall next to me with a sharpie: "you're never alone with a schizophrenic".
Good Night.

Next destination: Windhoek, Namibia

Prologue

I am Jake, 23 year old student creepy unemployed guy from Finland whose passion is to see the world, meet new people and learn about different cultures. After volunteering more or less diligently for a few weeks in Cape Town, it's time to let my hair down and chilax. A week from now, I will leave my job in Cape Town, wait for one of my friends from Finland to join me and start likely mind blowing journey, towards north to Malawi and Tanzania.

Our travel route is not yet set in stone, but the plan is to start from Cape Town, travel via Windhoek (Namibia), Livingstone (Zambia), Lusaka (Zambia), Lilongwe (Malawi), Nkhata Bay (Malawi), Mwanza (Tanzania), Zanzibar (Tanzania) to finally Dar Es Salam, capital of Tanzania, from where our flight back to Finland departs around 6 weeks from now. Our goal is to not to take any commercial flights, but to only use local transportation to ensure that we experience and see as much of the African scenery and culture as possible. The whole journey is going to be around 6000 kilometers and take us through 5 countries in forty days.

I'm not sure how often we will have access to Internet, but I'll try to update this blog as often as humanly possible. I intend to write about  my personal experiences as well as provide useful information for possible future travelers and people who generally enjoy educating themselves about the world around them.